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On the surface, forced induction for motorcycles is a good idea: more power from smaller engines giving the performance of much larger engines. At one point in the 1970s, Japanese manufacturers looked to be adopting the technology wholesale, but then the ideas dried up as everyone realized that the same power could be achieved much easier through fuel injection and improved combustion technology. While it lasted, however, it was a fascinating blind alley that has only just been re-opened by Kawasaki with the H2.

1939 BMW Type 255 ‘Kompressor’ We can’t start this list with anything other than the grandfather of the forced induction motorcycle, the BMW Type 255 Kompressor. In the 1930s, BMW was the only manufacturer to go down the supercharger route, as they challenged the might of the British manufacturers in racing. The traditional BMW boxer twin was supercharged with a Zoller sliding vane supercharger to produce 60 horsepower from just 500cc. In 1939, Georg Meier achieved the first Isle of Man Senior TT victory for a non-British motorcycle and the BMW Type 255 also set a motorcycle land speed record in 1937, at a speed of 173.7 mph.

1982 Yamaha XJ650T Turbo The 1980s saw many rather tasteless trends in both music and fashion, but it was also the decade of the turbocharger. Lots of mundane family cars got the turbocharging treatment in an attempt to turn sow's ears into silk purses. Motorcycles weren’t immune, and the Japanese seized on forced induction to add pep to some of their models. One of the first was the Yamaha XJ650T, which had a brief but impactful life. Launched in 1982, it featured the aging inline four-cylinder XJ650 engine, turbocharged to give 90 horsepower. The chassis really wasn’t up to coping with the extra power, but the fairing pointed to a more touring rôle rather than a sports rôle. Even the dash was typically 1980s futuristic.

1983 Suzuki XN85 Futuristic Katana-style looks hid another aging engine - this time, the 673cc, inline four-cylinder from the GS650 - which had been turbocharged to eke out a few more years of relevancy. The name refers to the power output - 85 horsepower - which wasn’t unhealthy and at least the turbocharger addressed the lack of low-down torque that is a characteristic of those smaller-displacement Japanese fours. Despite the 16-inch front wheel - another ’80s affliction - the Suzuki XN85 was considered a sweet-handling motorcycle. In line with all bikes in this list, not many were produced, and so they are rare today.

1982 Honda CX500 Turbo For one year only, the ugly duckling and slow CX500 workhorse was turned into something nearer a swan with a stylish fairing and featuring 82 horsepower of turbocharged urge. Fitting a turbocharger wasn’t a response to a fad as the transverse V-twin engine had been designed to be turbocharged from the outset. Running high boost, the turbo lag was catastrophic but the extra performance was needed to offset the weight of the fairing. It was typical Honda: take a mundane model and show off its technical prowess. The CX500 Turbo wasn’t especially exciting, and it was expensive: all in all, not a great success.

1983 Honda CX650 Turbo Another one-year-only model, the CX650 was basically the CX500 turbo with more power (a hike to 100 horsepower), and the throttle lag problem was largely successfully addressed. However, they did this by turning down the boost and relying on the increase in displacement and compression ratio to get more power so the CX650 was actually softer than the CX500, with less turbo effect. Nonetheless, probably the most convincing - from an engineering point of view -of the ’80s breed of turbocharged motorcycles.

1984 Kawasaki GPz750 Turbo Kawasaki jumped on the turbocharging bandwagon as Honda was jumping off, but that, at least, gave Kawasaki the chance to examine its rivals and avoid the same mistakes. The GPz750 Turbo arrived at a strange time for the company, whose line-up boasted the GPz1100 which was faster and, crucially, cheaper than the 750 Turbo, not to mention the newly-introduced GPz900R which moved the sports bike genre beyond what the Turbo was trying to achieve. But, the GPz750 Turbo was arguably the best of the crop of Japanese turbo bikes, featuring as it did a decent sports chassis that could handle extra power: 112 horsepower as standard but able to accept higher boost for more power, if you could live with the turbo lag.

1978 Kawasaki Z1R-TC Preceding the GPz750 by some six years, the Z1R-TC wasn’t a production model per se, but rather a factory-approved special offered in 1978 only. Dealers could bolt an after-market ‘Turbo-Pak’ kit to an existing Z1R, while making no other changes to the bike. Boosting power by 40 horsepower to 130 horsepower was more than the chassis could handle, and the turbo lag was almost terminal! Even better, buyers of the Z1R-TC had to sign a waiver declaring that when it went bang, there would be no factory warranty or backup! No one knows how many were converted but, hopefully, none survive!

2003 Peugeot Jet Force Compressor We tend to think of forced induction being the sole preserve of sports and sports touring bikes, but Peugeot had other ideas. The Jet Force had a 125cc engine sitting by the rear wheel. 15 horsepower was claimed but, with the supercharger added, that went up to 19 horsepower and enabled the Jet Force to outrun 250cc scooters. However, the supercharger and air intake installation robbed the scooter of all the under-seat storage space, which is such a big attraction of scooters, and it also pushed the price up to more than 250cc scooters. Not a commercial success but still fascinating.

2015 Icon Sheene A very limited production motorcycle - just 52 examples were slated to be built - the Icon Sheene featured the engine from the Suzuki Hayabusa, Spondon chassis and an enormous turbocharger boosting the engine to 257 horsepower. The boost level is modest, though, so the power output could be massively increased (while shrinking engine life, presumably). $110,000 sounds a lot for such a machine - and it was! It was also the most powerful production bike in the world at the time it was announced back in 2010. Whether 52 bikes means that it is a production bike is open to debate, especially as each one was to be tailored to the individual customer so no two would ever be alike.

2015 Kawasaki H2/H2R Astonishingly bold move by Kawasaki, bringing forced induction back into motorcycling after 30 years. Quite why Kawasaki did it is a mystery - the ZZR1400 was already quick enough - but manufacturers are always looking for a way to upstage their rivals and the H2 did just that. Everything about it was special, from the supercharger chirruping away on the overrun to the silver-based, self-healing paint, never mind the incredible performance. It was too heavy to challenge liter sports bikes around a track but, as a sports touring bike, it had few equals. The even more insane H2R boosted the H2’s 207 horsepower to a frankly bonkers 310 horsepower and there were no lights to prevent it from being ridden on the road. In the hands of ex-World Supersport champion, Kenan Sofuoglu, an H2R achieved 250 mph on a bridge in Turkey back in 2016.

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Winter Motorcycle Fun

Hayabusa Low-Boost Turbo Kit

Hayabusa Low-Boost Turbo Kit

The ProBoost Low-Boost Kit does not require a cometic spacer, so the engine does not have to come out to accommodate the spacer. The turbo is literally bolt-on.

HardRider News Media
Nov 20, 2025
Your Winter Project

The Suzuki Hayabusa has long been considered one of the most desirable motorcycles to turbocharge, thanks to its robust 1340cc engine and the extensive aftermarket support available for performance upgrades. Riders are drawn to the Hayabusa’s ability to handle significant horsepower increases, but one common hesitation for street riders is the perceived need to install a base spacer to lower compression from around 12:1 to 9:1. This modification is often recommended for high-boost setups, as reducing compression helps prevent detonation under heavy turbo pressure.

However, to combat this, ProBoost offers a Low-Boost turbo kit in addition to its Street and Race kits designed specifically for stock-compression Hayabusas. This kit limits boost to 4–5 psi, a level that the engine can safely handle without internal modifications. The key lies in how the kits are engineered to control and cap boost pressure.

How Low-Boost Kits Work

Wastegate Control: A properly sized external wastegate (commonly 38 mm) ensures that excess exhaust gases bypass the turbo once the target boost level is reached. This mechanical safeguard prevents boost creep beyond 4–5 psi.

ECU Tuning: Kits often include standalone or piggyback ECU systems with maps calibrated for low boost. These maps adjust ignition timing and fuel delivery to prevent detonation at stock compression.

Fuel System Upgrades: Even at low boost, additional fuel is required. Requires upgraded fuel pump and potentially upgraded regulator, and injectors to maintain the correct air-fuel ratio.

MAP Sensors & Boost References: A map sensor or similar device ensures the ECU accurately reads boost pressure and responds accordingly.

Reliability of 4–5 PSI Kits

It has been proven that stock-compression Hayabusas can reliably run 4–5 psi without engine damage, provided the kit is installed correctly and tuned properly. At this level, the engine typically produces 230–250 horsepower, a significant increase over stock while maintaining long-term reliability. The low boost avoids the extreme cylinder pressures that necessitate compression-lowering spacers.

Reliability hinges on three factors:
Consistent wastegate function to prevent boost spikes.
Proper ECU calibration to avoid lean conditions or detonation.
Routine maintenance of turbo components, fuel system, and sensors.

Conclusion

In short, low-boost turbo kits for the Hayabusa achieve safe performance gains by mechanically and electronically capping boost at 4–5 psi. This allows street riders to enjoy substantial horsepower increases without the expense and complexity of lowering compression. As long as the wastegate, ECU, and fuel system are functioning correctly, these kits are reliable and will not exceed the intended boost level.

Additionally street riders benefit with the ProBoost turbo kit because the kit uses the stock oil cooler and rad, so that normal use of street and highway riding keeps your Hayabusa purring and running without issue.

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Motorcycle Ice Racing

Motorcycle ice racing is one of the most unique and thrilling forms of motorsport, combining winter landscapes with high-speed competition on frozen lakes and rivers. Riders fit their motorcycles with studded or spiked tires, transforming slippery ice into a racing surface with remarkable traction. This sport has a rich tradition in Scandinavia and Canada, and continues to grow in North America under the sanction of major organizations.

Riding on Ice: Who Does It?

Ice racing attracts a diverse group of riders. Many are flat track racers who use ice racing as off-season training, since the studded tires provide grip comparable to dirt or asphalt. Others are enthusiasts from northern regions where frozen lakes are abundant, turning winter into an opportunity rather than a barrier. Riders range from amateurs experimenting with local club events to professionals competing in international championships.

The Motorcycles Used

The motorcycles typically used for ice racing are off-road bikes such as motocross or flat track machines, modified with studded tires and protective fenders. These spikes—hundreds of razor-sharp screws embedded into the tires—allow riders to lean at extreme angles without losing grip. Some bikes are lowered for stability, while others retain their dirt-track geometry for versatility. In Europe, specialized ice speedway bikes are common, featuring rigid frames, no brakes, and long spikes for maximum traction.

Competitions and Upcoming Events

Globally, the most prestigious competition is the FIM Ice Speedway World Championship, sanctioned by the Fédération Internationale de Motocyclisme (FIM). The 2025 calendar includes qualifying rounds in Sweden (Örnsköldsvik, February 1), Germany (Inzell, March 15–16), and the Netherlands (Heerenveen, April 5–6). These events showcase the best riders from Scandinavia, Russia, and Central Europe.

In North America, the American Motorcyclist Association (AMA) sanctions ice racing events across northern states. Canada also hosts a vibrant scene, with the CASC Ontario Region and clubs like the Winnipeg Sports Car Club organizing annual ice racing schedules. Local ovals and grand-prix style courses are plowed onto frozen lakes, creating competitive circuits for both rookies and veterans.

Sanctioning and Sponsorship

Ice racing is formally sanctioned by organizations such as the AMA in the U.S., the Canadian Motorcycle Association in Canada, and the FIM internationally. These bodies provide rulebooks, licensing, and championship structures. Sponsorship often comes from motorcycle manufacturers, gear companies, and local businesses, especially in regions where ice racing is a cultural tradition.

Popularity in North America and Beyond

In North America, ice racing remains a niche but passionate sport. It is particularly strong in Canada, where frozen lakes provide natural venues and communities embrace winter motorsports. Events in Ontario, Manitoba, and Alberta draw consistent participation. In the U.S., northern states like Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Michigan are hotbeds of activity.

In Scandinavia and Finland, however, ice racing is far more mainstream. Finland, Sweden, and Russia have produced world champions, and the sport enjoys strong cultural support. The long winters and tradition of motorsport make ice racing a natural fit, with large crowds attending FIM-sanctioned events.

Conclusion

Motorcycle ice racing is a fascinating blend of skill, engineering, and winter endurance. From studded motocross bikes on frozen lakes in Canada to specialized speedway machines in Scandinavia, the sport thrives under the sanction of organizations like the AMA and FIM. While it remains a niche discipline in North America, its popularity in Canada and Europe ensures that ice racing continues to be one of the most spectacular winter motorsports. With upcoming events in Sweden, Germany, and the Netherlands, and local races across Canada and the U.S., the 2025 season promises to keep the tradition alive and growing.

Slow-Mo of That Point You Fall Off Your Motorcycle

Suzuki Hayabusa Fuel Pump and Filter Maintenance: A Deep Dive

The Suzuki Hayabusa is a motorcycle that has earned legendary status in the performance world. Known for its blistering speed, smooth power delivery, and bulletproof engineering, it remains a favorite among riders who demand both reliability and adrenaline. Yet, like any high-performance machine, the Hayabusa requires careful attention to its fuel system. At the heart of that system lies the in-tank fuel pump and filter assembly—a component often overlooked until problems arise. Proper maintenance of this system is critical, not only for everyday street riding but especially for those who push the limits with turbochargers, nitrous oxide, or heavily built engines. In this article, we’ll explore the three key issues surrounding Hayabusa fuel pump maintenance, why the filter is the most important factor, and how external filter solutions and pump upgrades can save you headaches down the road.

Clean Fuel Tank: The First Line of Defense
The first and most fundamental issue in fuel pump maintenance is the condition of the fuel tank itself. A clean tank is essential because the pump and filter are only as effective as the environment they operate in. Dirt, rust, and debris inside the tank can wreak havoc on the fuel system. Even small particles can clog the filter, reduce fuel flow, and eventually damage the injectors. Rust is particularly insidious; once it begins forming inside the tank, it tends to spread and flake off, contaminating the fuel supply continuously.

For Hayabusa owners, regular inspection of the tank is a must. If the bike has been stored for long periods, especially with fuel inside, condensation can lead to rust formation. Riders should periodically drain the tank, inspect the interior with a flashlight, and flush it with clean fuel if necessary. Preventative measures, such as using fuel stabilizers during storage and keeping the tank full to minimize air exposure, can go a long way toward preserving the integrity of the system. A clean tank ensures that the pump and filter are not fighting a losing battle against contamination.

Fuel Pump Wear: Recognizing When It’s Beyond Its Prime
The second issue is the pump itself. Like any mechanical component, the fuel pump has a finite lifespan. Over time, wear and tear reduce its efficiency. For a Hayabusa with high mileage, the pump may simply be beyond its prime. Symptoms of a failing pump include difficulty starting, inconsistent fuel delivery, hesitation under acceleration, or outright stalling. Riders often mistake these issues for electrical problems or injector faults, but the pump is frequently the culprit.

The Hayabusa’s in-tank pump is designed to deliver consistent pressure to the injectors, but once its internal components wear down, it struggles to maintain that pressure. This is especially problematic for performance riders who demand more fuel flow than stock conditions. A tired pump may still function under normal riding, but when asked to support a turbocharged or nitrous-fed engine, it quickly reveals its limitations. Replacing the pump before it fails completely is wise preventive maintenance. Bosch pumps, for example, are a popular upgrade among Hayabusa enthusiasts. Known for their reliability and strong flow characteristics, Bosch units provide peace of mind when pushing the bike beyond factory specifications.

The Fuel Pump Filter: Small but Critical
The third and arguably most important aspect of fuel pump maintenance is the filter. On the Hayabusa, the in-tank filter is notoriously small. While compact design may have been convenient for Suzuki engineers, it presents a major problem for riders. When this tiny filter clogs, fuel delivery is impeded, and the engine suffers. Poor throttle response, lean conditions, and even engine damage can result from inadequate fuel supply. In performance applications, a clogged filter is not just inconvenient—it’s dangerous.

The challenge lies in the fact that OEM replacement filters are difficult to source, and aftermarket options vary widely in quality. Riders often find themselves stuck between expensive OEM parts and questionable third-party alternatives. Worse, the in-tank design makes cleaning or replacing the filter a tedious process. For these reasons, many experienced Hayabusa owners have adopted a more practical solution: bypassing the in-tank filter entirely and installing an external filter.

External Filter Solutions: Practical and Effective
Bypassing the in-tank filter and running an external unit offers two major benefits. First, external filters are far easier to clean and replace. Riders can visually inspect them, remove them quickly, and flush them without disassembling the tank. This convenience alone makes the modification worthwhile. Second, external filters provide assurance that when the pump is running, the injectors are receiving the fuel they need. With the restrictive in-tank filter out of the equation, fuel delivery becomes more consistent and reliable.

Another advantage is flexibility. External filters come in a wide range of sizes and flow ratings, allowing riders to tailor the system to their specific needs. Whether you’re running a stock engine or a turbocharged monster, you can select a filter that matches your fuel demands. This customization is critical for performance builds, where fuel starvation can spell disaster. Riders who adopt external filters often report smoother throttle response, fewer maintenance headaches, and greater confidence in their bike’s reliability.

Bosch Pump Upgrade: A Proven Performer
As mentioned earlier, Bosch pumps are a popular choice for Hayabusa owners seeking an upgrade. These pumps are well-regarded in the automotive and motorcycle communities for their durability and flow capacity. When paired with an external filter, a Bosch pump transforms the Hayabusa’s fuel system into a robust, high-performance setup. Riders who add nitrous, turbochargers, or superchargers often consider this upgrade mandatory. The stock pump simply cannot keep up with the demands of forced induction or heavily modified engines.

Bosch pumps also offer peace of mind for long-distance riders. Even if you’re not chasing horsepower records, knowing that your fuel system is equipped with a reliable pump and filter setup reduces the risk of being stranded by a fuel delivery failure. For a bike like the Hayabusa, which is often ridden hard and fast, reliability is not optional—it’s essential.

Street Riders vs. Performance Builders: Different Needs, Same Lesson
It’s worth noting that many street riders overlook fuel pump maintenance. Because the Hayabusa is so well-engineered, it often runs flawlessly for years without attention to the pump or filter. However, this complacency can lead to sudden problems. Even riders who never plan to add performance modifications should inspect and maintain their fuel system regularly. A clogged filter or failing pump doesn’t discriminate between stock and modified bikes—it will cause issues regardless.

For performance builders, the lesson is even more critical. Fuel delivery is the lifeblood of any high-horsepower engine. Without adequate fuel, even the most carefully tuned setup will fail. Upgrading the pump and filter is not optional—it’s mandatory. Riders who invest in turbo kits, nitrous systems, or superchargers must also invest in a fuel system that can support those modifications. Ignoring this step is a recipe for blown engines and wasted money.

Conclusion: Fuel System Maintenance as Preventive Medicine
In summary, the Suzuki Hayabusa’s in-tank fuel pump and filter system demands attention. The three key issues—keeping the tank clean, recognizing when the pump is worn out, and addressing the limitations of the tiny in-tank filter—form the foundation of proper maintenance. By bypassing the restrictive OEM filter and installing an external unit, riders gain convenience, reliability, and peace of mind. Pairing this setup with a Bosch pump ensures that the Hayabusa’s legendary performance is backed by a fuel system capable of meeting any demand.

Fuel pump and filter maintenance may not be glamorous, but it is essential. Street riders benefit from reliability and smoother performance, while performance builders gain the assurance that their engines are properly fed under extreme conditions. In both cases, the lesson is clear: don’t overlook the fuel system. The Hayabusa deserves the best, and with proper care, it will continue to deliver the speed, power, and thrill that made it a legend.

Number One Difference Between Harleys and Sport Bikes

The Power Band Divide: Harley Cruisers vs. Sport Bikes

Motorcycle culture is built on passion, identity, and the visceral thrill of twisting the throttle. Yet, if there is one defining line that separates Harley-Davidson cruisers from sport bikes, it is the power band—the way each machine delivers its strength to the rider. This difference is not subtle; it is the very heartbeat of the two worlds, shaping how they sound, how they feel, and how they demand to be ridden.

Harley-Davidson cruisers are torque monsters. Their engines are tuned for low-end grunt, delivering a surge of raw pulling power the moment you ease off the clutch. That sensation of being shoved forward from a stop sign or rolling out of a corner is intoxicating. It’s not about speed—it’s about force. The deep, throaty rumble of a Harley’s V-twin is more than just noise; it’s a statement. It’s rough, tough, and mean, resonating through your chest like a war drum. Riders don’t need to chase redlines or scream through gears to feel rewarded. The satisfaction is immediate, accessible, and deeply primal.

Sport bikes, on the other hand, live at the opposite end of the spectrum. Their engines are designed to spin high, often soaring past 12,000 RPM before hitting peak power. The experience is one of zinging acceleration, winding through gears, and chasing the rush that only comes at blistering speeds. Some sport bikes sound strained and gasping as they climb the rev range, while others—especially the high-end machines—sing with a symphony that rivals exotic cars, like a Ferrari on two wheels. But the catch is clear: the reward only comes when you push hard, when you ride fast, and when you dance dangerously close to the limits of the law. Around town, that means temptation. It means radar traps, unmarked cars, and speeding tickets waiting to punish the thrill. This contrast in power delivery creates two entirely different riding experiences. On a Harley, the joy is in the torque—the immediate, low-end surge that makes everyday riding satisfying without breaking the speed limit. On a sport bike, the joy is in the chase—the high-rev scream that demands velocity, precision, and risk. One is about raw muscle and attitude, the other about razor-sharp performance and adrenaline. Both are intoxicating, but in opposite ways.

Ultimately, the greatest difference between Harley cruisers and sport bikes is not just mechanical—it’s philosophical. Harleys reward patience, presence, and the simple act of rolling away with authority. Sport bikes reward aggression, speed, and the pursuit of perfection at high RPMs. One thrives in the city streets, the other on open highways and racetracks. Together, they represent two sides of the same coin: the eternal allure of motorcycles, each with its own rhythm, its own voice, and its own way of making riders fall in love.

HardRider MotoWerks™
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Long-Term Motorcycle Storage Guide

Keep Your Motorcycle Safe Over the Winter

Properly storing a motorcycle for an extended period, such as over a winter season, requires diligent preparation across several key areas to ensure the bike remains in optimal condition and is ready to ride when the next season arrives. The ideal storage environment is clean, dry, and temperature-controlled, like a well-ventilated garage or a dedicated storage unit, which helps protect mechanical and electrical components from extreme temperatures and dampness that can lead to rust and deterioration. Before storage, a thorough wash and dry of the motorcycle is essential to remove all dirt, road grime, and moisture, followed by applying a protective wax or a dedicated anti-corrosion lubricant to all painted, chrome, and metal surfaces to prevent rust and pitting.

Battery Care and Maintainer Usage

The battery is one of the most crucial components to manage during long-term storage. The best way to maintain it is by using a "smart" battery tender (also often called a battery maintainer or trickle charger) designed for motorcycles. Unlike basic old-school trickle chargers, smart tenders are microprocessor-controlled and feature multi-stage charging, which automatically switches from a full charging mode to a float or maintenance mode once the battery is full. This prevents overcharging, which can boil the battery's fluid and damage its internal plates, ultimately shortening its lifespan. Brands like Battery Tender (e.g., Battery Tender Plus, Battery Tender Junior), OptiMate, and NOCO Genius are highly regarded for their reliability and advanced technology, often offering models that can handle both traditional lead-acid (flooded, AGM, Gel) and newer Lithium (LiFePO4) batteries.

The tender should be used continuously for the entire duration of the storage period. It is designed to be left connected for weeks or months, monitoring the battery's voltage and delivering only the necessary charge to keep it topped up and prevent the damaging process of sulfation that occurs when a battery self-discharges. To use it, simply connect the tender's quick-disconnect harness (which should be permanently installed on the battery terminals for convenience) and plug the tender into a wall outlet. For optimal care, some recommend removing the battery entirely and storing it in a dry, room-temperature location, especially if the storage area is prone to freezing, but connecting the tender directly to the bike in a secure location is a common and acceptable practice, provided the tender is a modern smart-style maintainer.

Fuel System Preservation

Another critical step is preparing the fuel system, as modern gasoline, especially ethanol-blended fuel, degrades rapidly and can cause gum and varnish deposits that clog carburetors and fuel injectors. The best approach is to fill the fuel tank completely to the brim, which minimizes the air space inside and reduces the chance of moisture condensation and internal tank rust. Crucially, a fuel stabilizer must be added to this full tank. Popular and effective brands include Sta-bil, Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment, and Seafoam. The stabilizer should be added according to the product's instructions, and the engine must then be run for about 10–15 minutes. This circulation ensures the treated fuel moves through the entire fuel system, the tank, petcock, fuel lines, fuel pump, injectors, and/or carburetor to protect all components from degradation.

Tire and Chassis Considerations

To prevent flat spots, which can develop when a motorcycle's weight rests on the same section of the tires for months, it is highly recommended to lift the motorcycle. Using front and rear paddock stands, a center stand, or a motorcycle jack to get the tires completely off the ground is the best solution. If lifting the bike is not possible, you should at least inflate the tires to the maximum PSI listed on the sidewall of the tire itself (not the riding pressure listed in the owner's manual). This over-inflation helps the tire maintain its round shape under the bike's load. Additionally, placing a barrier like a piece of cardboard, carpet, or a rubber mat under the tires can help insulate them from the cold, damp concrete floor.

Protective Coatings and Final Steps

For added protection against corrosion, many riders advocate for spraying exposed metal and chrome surfaces with an anti-corrosion agent. While WD-40 is a water-displacing spray and can provide a temporary moisture barrier, it is primarily a solvent and not a long-lasting rust inhibitor or lubricant. A better, more detailed method is to clean the bike, apply a quality wax to painted parts, and use a dedicated silicone spray or a rust inhibitor product on non-painted metal surfaces. Some professionals suggest lightly spraying inside the exhaust pipes and then plugging the openings with a rag or a specialized exhaust plug to prevent moisture and rodents from entering. Finally, cover the entire motorcycle with a breathable, non-plastic motorcycle cover to protect against dust while allowing moisture to escape, preventing condensation and mildew formation.

Suzuki Bandit 1200 - The Easy Affordable Turbo Build

The Suzuki Bandit 1200 is arguably one of the best platforms for a turbo build, thanks to its affordability, ease of installation, and compatibility with ProBoost’s legendary turbo kits, distributed by HardRider MotoWerks™, the most accessible and cost-effective supplier in North America.

The Suzuki Bandit 1200 has long been a favorite among motorcycle enthusiasts for its raw power, bulletproof reliability, and versatile design. But what truly sets it apart is how seamlessly it transforms into a turbocharged beast. Unlike many modern sportbikes that require extensive engine disassembly, the Bandit 1200 does not require a Cometic shim to be installed to lower compression and so no need to remove the engine. This dramatically simplifies the turbo installation process, making it one of the easiest turbo builds available, a dream for DIY builders and seasoned tuners alike.

Enter the ProBoost Turbo Kit, a product of over 30 years of engineering excellence. ProBoost has built a reputation for crafting turbo systems that are not only powerful but also street-reliable. Their kits are designed to retain the stock oil cooler and radiator, ensuring optimal engine temperatures even under boost. This is a critical feature for streetfighters, which often endure stop-and-go traffic and long rides. The ProBoost Street Kit, for example, uses a TD05H-16G OEM-spec turbocharger with actuator pressure up to 0.7 bar (10 psi), delivering up to 240 rear-wheel horsepower. A staggering upgrade from the Bandit’s stock output.

HardRider MotoWerks™, the exclusive North American distributor of ProBoost kits, makes acquiring these performance parts incredibly convenient. With locations in Toronto, Canada and Lewiston, New York, HardRider ensures fast shipping and local support for riders across the continent. Even better, they offer the lowest prices anywhere, with complete kits starting around $3200 USD. Their lineup includes Starter, Street, Race, and Build-Your-Own options, catering to every budget and performance goal.

The Bandit 1200’s classic naked styling and robust steel frame make it an ideal candidate for a Streetfighter conversion. Its carbureted engine is simple to tune, and the bike itself is extremely affordable on the used market, often found for under $3000 in good condition. This low entry cost, combined with the straightforward turbo install, means riders can build a high-performance Streetfighter for a fraction of the cost of newer sportbikes. The Bandit’s ample engine bay space and strong bottom end further support forced induction, making it a reliable platform for high horsepower builds.

At the heart of every ProBoost kit is a commitment to durability and performance. These kits include precision-crafted components like stainless steel exhaust manifolds, cast aluminum plenums, flexible silicone pressure hoses, and heavy-duty clutch springs. The kits are designed to be bolt-on, with minimal fabrication required, and come with detailed installation instructions and support from HardRider. Some riders have logged over 100,000 miles on their ProBoost-equipped Bandits, a testament to the system’s longevity.

HardRider MotoWerks™ Parts for the Suzuki Bandit 1200 Turbo Build:
ProBoost TD05H-16G Turbocharger (OEM spec, 0.7 bar actuator)
Stainless Steel SS304 Exhaust Manifold and Downpipe
Cast Aluminum Plenum
Blue Silicone Pressure Hoses and Clamps
Oil Lines, Boost Gauge, GM Map Sensor
Heavy-Duty Clutch Spring
Air Filter and Turbo Softcare Kit
Installation USB Stick with Instructions

These components are engineered to work with the Bandit’s stock cooling system and engine layout, making them perfect for street use and long-term reliability. Whether you're chasing horsepower or building a head-turning Streetfighter, the Suzuki Bandit 1200 paired with a ProBoost turbo kit from HardRider MotoWerks™ is the ultimate formula for performance, affordability, and ease.

Best Turbo Bike Ever Made - Hayabusa Gen2

The Gen2 Hayabusa: The Ultimate Platform for Turbo Power

The Suzuki Hayabusa Gen2 (2008–2020) has cemented its legacy not just as a high-speed icon, but as arguably the ideal motorcycle platform for turbocharging, particularly for the dedicated street racer. The synergy of the Gen2's robust engineering and the straightforward nature of its electronics, compared to the modern Gen3, makes it a prime candidate for massive power gains. For riders looking to tap into a new level of performance without breaking the bank, a system like the Proboost Turbo Kit is a game-changer.

💪 Engineering Advantage: Built to Boost

One of the most compelling reasons for the Gen2 Hayabusa's turbo suitability lies in its legendary engine strength. The 1,340cc inline-four engine is renowned for its durability and stout internals, capable of handling significant increases in horsepower with minimal or no internal modifications at lower boost levels. For context, while the stock engine produces around 190 horsepower, installing a turbo kit can immediately vault the rear-wheel power output well over the 300 horsepower mark on pump fuel, with some builds reaching over 450 horsepower with internal engine work and race fuel. This robust foundation, which includes a strong crankcase and connecting rod design, allows street riders to bolt on a turbo and experience explosive acceleration without the immediate need for a costly engine rebuild, a major financial and time advantage over many other sport bikes.

🛠️ Simplicity and Cost-Effectiveness: The Gen2 Edge

Unlike its more electronically complex Gen3 successor, the Gen2 lacks much of the intricate electronic rider aids (like a sophisticated IMU and multiple complex ride modes) that complicate forced-induction tuning. This relative electronic simplicity translates directly into easier installation and tuning, making the process more accessible and generally less expensive. The Gen2’s simpler architecture means fewer systems need to be bypassed, integrated, or tricked into handling the huge power increase. This ease of use is a significant factor in the growing appeal of turbocharged Gen2 'Busas among the street racing community, where riders often prefer wrenching on their own machines or having straightforward aftermarket support.

💨 The Proboost Turbo Solution: Affordable Street Power

For the surging number of street racers, the Proboost Turbo Kit, distributed in North America by HardRider Motowerks, offers an unparalleled blend of performance and value. With over 30 years of experience in turbo manufacturing, Proboost has designed a kit specifically with the street rider in mind. Priced as low as $2,900, it stands out as one of the lowest-priced turbo kits available on the market, democratizing extreme power for a wider audience.

A key benefit of the Proboost design for street racing is its "bolt-on" nature that retains the stock oil and cooling systems. This simple integration provides a real performance advantage on the street, as the preservation of the stock radiator and oil cooling systems means better cooling for both aggressive street riding and sustained high-speed runs. Maintaining optimal engine temperature is crucial for reliability under the stress of forced induction, giving the rider a distinct edge in scenarios where repeated high-power bursts are necessary. This combination of industry expertise, low cost, and street-focused engineering makes the Proboost kit the go-to option for unlocking the full, terrifying potential of the Gen2 Hayabusa.