Long-Term Motorcycle Storage Guide

Keep Your Motorcycle Safe Over the Winter

Properly storing a motorcycle for an extended period, such as over a winter season, requires diligent preparation across several key areas to ensure the bike remains in optimal condition and is ready to ride when the next season arrives. The ideal storage environment is clean, dry, and temperature-controlled, like a well-ventilated garage or a dedicated storage unit, which helps protect mechanical and electrical components from extreme temperatures and dampness that can lead to rust and deterioration. Before storage, a thorough wash and dry of the motorcycle is essential to remove all dirt, road grime, and moisture, followed by applying a protective wax or a dedicated anti-corrosion lubricant to all painted, chrome, and metal surfaces to prevent rust and pitting.

Battery Care and Maintainer Usage

The battery is one of the most crucial components to manage during long-term storage. The best way to maintain it is by using a "smart" battery tender (also often called a battery maintainer or trickle charger) designed for motorcycles. Unlike basic old-school trickle chargers, smart tenders are microprocessor-controlled and feature multi-stage charging, which automatically switches from a full charging mode to a float or maintenance mode once the battery is full. This prevents overcharging, which can boil the battery's fluid and damage its internal plates, ultimately shortening its lifespan. Brands like Battery Tender (e.g., Battery Tender Plus, Battery Tender Junior), OptiMate, and NOCO Genius are highly regarded for their reliability and advanced technology, often offering models that can handle both traditional lead-acid (flooded, AGM, Gel) and newer Lithium (LiFePO4) batteries.

The tender should be used continuously for the entire duration of the storage period. It is designed to be left connected for weeks or months, monitoring the battery's voltage and delivering only the necessary charge to keep it topped up and prevent the damaging process of sulfation that occurs when a battery self-discharges. To use it, simply connect the tender's quick-disconnect harness (which should be permanently installed on the battery terminals for convenience) and plug the tender into a wall outlet. For optimal care, some recommend removing the battery entirely and storing it in a dry, room-temperature location, especially if the storage area is prone to freezing, but connecting the tender directly to the bike in a secure location is a common and acceptable practice, provided the tender is a modern smart-style maintainer.

Fuel System Preservation

Another critical step is preparing the fuel system, as modern gasoline, especially ethanol-blended fuel, degrades rapidly and can cause gum and varnish deposits that clog carburetors and fuel injectors. The best approach is to fill the fuel tank completely to the brim, which minimizes the air space inside and reduces the chance of moisture condensation and internal tank rust. Crucially, a fuel stabilizer must be added to this full tank. Popular and effective brands include Sta-bil, Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment, and Seafoam. The stabilizer should be added according to the product's instructions, and the engine must then be run for about 10–15 minutes. This circulation ensures the treated fuel moves through the entire fuel system, the tank, petcock, fuel lines, fuel pump, injectors, and/or carburetor to protect all components from degradation.

Tire and Chassis Considerations

To prevent flat spots, which can develop when a motorcycle's weight rests on the same section of the tires for months, it is highly recommended to lift the motorcycle. Using front and rear paddock stands, a center stand, or a motorcycle jack to get the tires completely off the ground is the best solution. If lifting the bike is not possible, you should at least inflate the tires to the maximum PSI listed on the sidewall of the tire itself (not the riding pressure listed in the owner's manual). This over-inflation helps the tire maintain its round shape under the bike's load. Additionally, placing a barrier like a piece of cardboard, carpet, or a rubber mat under the tires can help insulate them from the cold, damp concrete floor.

Protective Coatings and Final Steps

For added protection against corrosion, many riders advocate for spraying exposed metal and chrome surfaces with an anti-corrosion agent. While WD-40 is a water-displacing spray and can provide a temporary moisture barrier, it is primarily a solvent and not a long-lasting rust inhibitor or lubricant. A better, more detailed method is to clean the bike, apply a quality wax to painted parts, and use a dedicated silicone spray or a rust inhibitor product on non-painted metal surfaces. Some professionals suggest lightly spraying inside the exhaust pipes and then plugging the openings with a rag or a specialized exhaust plug to prevent moisture and rodents from entering. Finally, cover the entire motorcycle with a breathable, non-plastic motorcycle cover to protect against dust while allowing moisture to escape, preventing condensation and mildew formation.